Thursday, July 29, 2010

Hai Karate - vintage TV commercial

This is just a hilarious advert

Old Spice commercial 1971

While on youtube i looked up old adverts from the 70's to get a real look at the clothing of that era. I think visual research seems to be more informative.

When considering the trend of suits in the 1970's, you have to consider the disco revolution. Flared trousers were the rage, and leisurely suits common. The 3 piece suit was the most apparant, with wide lapels that mimicked their matching trouser flares. Shoulders were sharp and sleeves seemed to carry more space. Overall, the suit doesnt hug the body like it once did. there seems to be more movement, in examples such as that found in the image, right.

Wednesday, July 28, 2010

Ermenegildo Zegna.

Beginning as a textile factory or more specifically a wool mill,
Ermenegildo Zegna has spent a century establishing itself as a prestigious italian fashion house. This year the Zegna family celebrated its centennary with a centennial collection incorporating textile design and garment construction used by Ermenegildo Zegna himself a century ago.
Close attention is payed to the final details of the garments, with fabrics made in house using natural fibres, and trims such as buttons created with the Zegna crest. There is a sense of fine craftsmenship, with RTW as well as made to measure tailored garments offered. The label provides a selection of lines including, Zegna Sport, Z Zegna, Made to Measure,
Ermenegildo Zegna, and a couture line.

Ermenegildo Zegna

These designs differ especially in fabrication when compared with the tailored suits of savile row. The classic masculine silhouette exists with a subtle sinch at the waist, much like Anderson & Sheppard, but the appearance of these siuts seem more slim, and remincscent of the 60's tailored suit.

Unlike Huntsman, Anderson & Sheppard do not produce ready-to-wear or made-to-measure garments. Concerned with easy movement and a natural body line, the cutters and pattern makers at A&S make the garment to fit the client. There is a greater sense of exclusivity, with a private consultation/fitting, and garments made to the style which you request. Much of the garment is hand sewn and padded, with the need to maintain the fluidity of drape and minimisation of seams. The silhouette is different to Huntsman with a softer shoulder (being cut slightly on the bias) and subtle definition on the waist. The aestheic is more one of elegance and classic masculine tailoring.


Savile Row, sinonomous for fine bespoke tailoring, is home to Huntsman, not the spider, but a tailor shop boasting a list of historic customers such as HM Queen Victoria, Sir Winston Churchill, Ronald Raegan, and classic screen stars Katherine Hepburn, Humphrey Bogart, Laurence Olivier, Bing Crosby, Peter Sellers, and Clark Gable.

Huntsman coats offer a sleek, elegant silhouette with defined shoulders, a longer hem, and emphasis upon a clean line. As well as the house style the store also offers other styles, whether it be casual, smart, sporty, double-breasted or two-buttoned. The aesthetic of design lies in fabrication which appears somewhat classic, yet could be described or interpreted as quirky. The store produces its own tweeds. Engineered by the Huntsman team colourways for the tweeds are inspired by Scottish colours and historic check designs.

Women's bespoke tailoring is also offered, with an inhouse specialist on women's tailoring. The female form is considered in the construction of womens jackets , with "garments engineered to work in harmony with the figure", (H.Huntsman and Sons, 2010). Versatility and refined elegance is essential in the degin, with jackets fit for the office. And close attention is paid to the frabrication of jackets, with a softer canvas and silk lining utilised in production.