Close inspection of the jacket, with the removal of the lining, demonstrates the detail required in constructing the garment, where specifics of the internal structure inform the external and thus fit and aesthetics of the garment. Between genders, distinct difference lie in the enhancement of the chest region, where less or none is used in womens to soften the bust, unlike men's jacket that utilise canvas, felt and wadding to add structure, reinforcing the male silhouette. Front pieces are fused, as well as pocket oppenings and dart apex to maintain the struture and stiffened drape of the garment. Shoulder pads are constructed with foam pieces wedged between layers of wadding, these extend a little over the armhole, assisting the shoulder role which is sewn in with the sleeve, consisting of further layers of felt and wadding. The shoulder roll allows the smooth natural curve of the sleeve head. Different weights of fusing are used on the lapel, under and top collars. The general white fusing is used on the top collar and reappears around the arm hole, lapel, and body oof the jacket front. A stiff cotton fusing is used on the under collar, mainting the strength of its stand. Soft netted fusing appears around the back neck and travels around the head of the arm hole. Fusing is used around the neck and arm to add stability to areas that see regular stress. An interesting additon is a tab or tape found on the shoulder pad at the head of the sleeve, in this case, used to keep the lining in place when joined to the outer shell of the jacket. Once the two pieces have been joined, the jacket is bagged out throught the sleeve and the seam is handsewn.
Anatomy of the tricks of trade
"Just as the chassis of a car must support the body, so the strong yet subtle framework of a jacket helps it to keep its shape when worn...before the lining and trimming have been added."
(Messieurs, Summer 1949).
1. Shoulder Pads
2. Felt lining that gives added firmness to chet and armholes
3. Woolen chest piece reinforces the chest, placed over fabric informing the garment
4. Woolen fabric forming, along with the chest piece, the framework of the garment
5. Crooss-cut band edging the chest piece
6. Braid to strengthen the fold in lapels
7. Braid strengthening the edges to prevent deformation of the lapels
8. Braid around armhole to keep it firm when sleeve is added
9. Buckram stiffener to make pocket sturdier 10. Pocket and ticket pocket lining.
(A History of Men's Fashion, Pin Stripes and Black Leather 1940-1990, p. 226, Chenoune.F, Flammarion 1993)